If you are not a textile designer or are new to the world of natural dyes the terminology can be confusing at first. We want to help you understand some of the names and words used here to describe textile making processes. So, the following is a short glossary of terms which will help you feel like an “insider”.
The Terminology of Natural Dyes and Textiles
1. Natural Dye- A natural dye is extracted from plants (and a few animal sources). The dye may be found in all parts of plants such as the roots, stems and leaves, flowers, seeds and seed pods and bark. Non-natural dyes are chemicals synthesized in a laboratory.
2. Natural Fiber- Natural fibers come from plants and animals. Wool and silk are animal fibers while cotton, linen and hemp are some of the fibers we use from plants. Non-natural fibers include nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex, rayon, microfiber, acetate and polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Natural fibers will biodegrade at the end of their useable lifespan.
3. Mordant- A mordant is a substance used in the natural dyeing process to pretreat fabric or yarn before dyeing. It is usually a non-toxic metal salt or a tannin which assists in the bonding of color molecules to fiber during the dye process. Different forms of Aluminium, as well as iron, copper, tin and chrome are traditionally used in natural dyeing. It should be noted that these mordants can also be toxic, and safety measures should be taken when working with them. “Alum” and other forms of aluminium salts are considered non-toxic.
4. Botanical Print- A technique for printing on paper and fabric using leaves, flowers, and other parts of plants to create clear impressions and color.
5. Eco print - This term was first used by the artist India Flint who discovered the process. It is used interchangeably with the term botanical print.
6. Bundle Dyed- A technique for dyeing cloth with flowers and other plant material. Beautiful patterns and color are created on cloth.
These three terms are often used as if they refer to different processes but are essentially the same.
7. Resist Dyed - A dye technique for creating patterns on cloth by tying, binding, stitching, folding or clamping in order to create a resist, or areas of cloth that will remain undyed. Tie-dye and Shibori are resist techniques.
8. Handweaving - The traditional way to make cloth on a loom by hand. These fabrics have a special quality, reflecting their handmade nature, which cannot be replicated by industrial weaving processes. We use simple handlooms, such as rigid heddle and inkle looms for weaving narrow fabrics.
9. Hand finishing or embellishing techniques - There are many techniques for finishing or decorating handmade pieces. We use stitch, embroidery, beading, special hems and knotted or twisted fringes.
10. Foraging- We can grow plants for color or find them growing in the natural places wherever we live. Looking in open areas, fields, roadsides or even a parking lot you may be surprised to find plants that can be used for natural dyeing, eco printing and bundle dyeing.
Once you understand these basic terms you will feel confident to join the conversation about natural textiles and once you start experimenting with natural dyes you can share your experiences with others !
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